The Ultimate SCUBA Paradise - Palau - Day One of Diving

(Leaving Guam. Sarah hard at work to capture some pretty sweet views of the Guam coast)

It's a little bit of a strange thing to leave a place like Guam in search of a short vacation.  It is quite a nice place to start with but when we came here it was partly because the location lends itself to a few nearby gems - gems like Palau.

Palau?  I had never heard of this magical place but after a little bit of research I discovered some bold claims going around such as - "best dive sites in the world" - "a diver's paradise" - "all of your diver's dreams will come true in Palau."  Ok I made the last one up.  Everyone we talked to said you have to go to Palau.

So we planned our trip and made the tough decisions spending money and booking dives with companies we have never heard of before. I'm not a fan of that part and we absolutely are way more comfortable with personal recommendations.  It's always nice to know someone who has been where you are about to spend your hard earned dough.

Fortunately for us someone gave us a nice rec for a hotel which we ended up really enjoying, Palau Central.  The staff always went way out of their way to help us and were quite cordial. 

The diving worked itself out through an outstanding deal we found through MDA (Micronesian Diving Association) who connected us with Sam's Tours (a diving company in Palau). MDA in Guam set us up with a package through Sam's Tours and off we went hoping for the best. 

(Here we are on our boat ready for the first dive meeting our crew and Dive Master)

The first day was exciting as it was our first dive with enriched air.  We took the required course with MDA in Guam before heading up to Palau so we could get the most out of our dives.

Besides us the boat consisted of some Australians, South Americans, two Frenchman, and a pair of Californians.  Our guides and master divers made sure we had everything ready for two dives and we shot off into the picturesque Palau waters.  

(Before we even got around to diving we were seeing sites like this.  It did not look like the boat would make it through the tiny gap in this archway but they zoomed on through with the sort of confidence that comes from doing it a few hundred times)

(It was hard to capture the experience on camera as we were in the back of the boat, but it was pretty amazing)

(Sarah kept saying, "It's all so beautiful!" Just the mixing blues and greens of the waters was enough to make this trip worth coming.  Before diving we were already lost in the magic of Palau. She loves it)

After zipping through the arch twice and taking a few wide arcs so we could all see it a few more times we continued towards our first dive site.  But there were still some more sites to see!

(We kept boating through a maze of beautiful islands, often with just enough room for our boat)

(Elephant island - can you see it?  Yes!  So cool.)

One of our favorite sites along the way when our guide called out, "That is what we call elephant island."  Looking over we could clearly see an island in the shape of a giant elephant making its way through the ocean, perhaps looking for a dive site as well.  Just realized we were out of the habit of posting when we went to Thailand - what?  How did we never do a post on the elephants?  Maybe a retro post sometime in the future.

Well we have not purchased a camera that can go down more than fifty feet yet, so we do not have any pictures underwater while actually diving until our last dive of the week.  We do have some great shots while playing around in between dives though.  Check out Sarah playing in an ocean that simply cannot be real - too unreal looking.

(Sarah taking a dip after one of our dives)

Dive One: Ulong Cliff  

Max depth: 86 feet

What did we see: We have seen sharks before but barely and from afar.  Almost all of the sharks we saw, or maybe all, were Grey Reef sharks.  To me they look like tiny and less harmless great whites but that's only because they are way big enough to do damage, even though everyone swears "we are not on their menu."  

But we did see a few of these guys along with two giant sea turtles!  So amazing. Then tons of coral and other tiny fishes.  Still not sure about sharks but I could not keep from staring at them in awestruck wonder.  And they did not bite me so that's nice. 

(Our boats private beach for lunch.  There are all of these little beach/parks on the small islands.  Our boat pulled in and we all got off to enjoy a pre-packed lunch together.  Then you can lounge or swim or whatnot)

Dive Two: Chad's Corner

Max Depth: 72 feet

What did we see: Lots of sharks (same as last time but at least seven different sharks!) Only one turtle and then the coral and fish.  Pretty nice dive.

The interesting part of this dive is that for the first time we did what is called reef hook diving.  Until getting ready for Palau I had never even heard of this form of diving.  Its a fascinating way to dive that is exactly what it sounds like.  A person simply hooks into the reef and remains stationary while the current keeps the person hooked in at a forced angle.  This allows the diver to save air, keep from fighting the current, and the entire ocean becomes a giant aquarium to swim around the person hooked into the reef. If you click on the link you'll see a pic of a diver reef hooking.  

It was a unique and fun way to see the ocean come to life.  Try it!

(Lunch with the water bottles the dive company gave us)

Dive Three: Chuyo Maru Wreck

Max Depth: 100 feet

What did we see: The inside of a Japanese boat from during WWII.  So we have seen a few wrecks but we have never investigated their inner secrets.  It can be quite dangerous.  This particular wreck is safer than most and our guide took us into two different sections of it.  Rusty, dark, somewhat scary, but totally spectacular.  Really fun.

No pictures but you can close your eyes and picture it. 

We got to see a frog fish which blended in almost entirely with the algae growing on the ship.  I found a pic online of one that looks almost like the one we saw - just click on the last link.  Then as we surfaced we spotted a tiny little squid just chilling near our boat.  Sweet. 

("They come in pints?!")

OK so the dive shop sells Red Rooster beer that is made in Palau.  Of course I had to try it out and see if it was any good.  Not bad.  Then off to the hotel, dinner in Palau, and sleep!  We were wore out from diving!!  Post on the second day of diving but more importantly pictures coming soon. 

Guam: Marbo Cave and Cliffs and Tarague Point

(Marbo Cave.  Our second caving experience in Guam and the second one that has a nice pool to swim in)

****If you have already read this or have not, I've had to make some corrections for having spelled Andersen Air Force base incorrectly a few times in the original post.  It has now been changed to the correct spelling*****

In our last post I mentioned a hike we had done and eluded to it perhaps not running quite as smoothly as it could have gone.  

Well it all started splendidly.  We were supposed to go hiking with a couple from Sarah's work but they had to back out due to prior obligations.  Upon a few searches online we decided on Marbo Cave and Cliffs for a hike.  There was plenty of information online about how to get there and what to do once there.  

One thing we have learned quickly from others is that the trails here are not marked super well and people getting lost and needing rescued is pretty common.  So information with pictures is helpful!

(When we got to the cave there was a decent group of folks already swimming in the crystal clear waters.  We checked it out and decided to head on down towards the beach and then come back)

It is a pretty happening cave and the main plus side for visitors is a road that is built within maybe 400 yards of the entrance.  Really not bad at all.  Then there are some steps and the structure seen in the picture that have been made for the cave to be more enjoyable.  

With all the activity and swimmers who were in there when we arrived we decided to head on down to the cliffs and the ocean before coming back to enjoy more of the cave.  After an easy walk we arrived upon this view below.

(There were some local fisherman trying their luck.  Seriously must be nice to fish at a gem like this on a daily basis)

Beautiful.  

I think I'm over using the flowery language but when one walks upon a scene like this what other words should be used?  We walked up and down the cliffs for a little bit and then decided of course that we needed to be closer to the water.  

After a short time we found a nice place where we could climb down to investigate.

(Sarah loved the way the waves would fill these little pools and create tiny waterfalls)

As seen in the picture above, the little pools formed by the waves make for a fun and seemingly private paradise to walk through while crabs and little tadpole looking fish clamor to get out of the way.  

We saw a few of these pools that get deep enough and are far enough from the crashing waves we could have just sat down and enjoyed a little salt whirlpool of sorts.  In hindsight we should have done just that.

(Wow. The waves would just lick at the rocks and the water still looks so pristine)

We did not sit in a little pool because we could see this "path" going around the distance rock corner. 

Keep that distant corner in your mind for reference and maybe be ready to scroll back to this pic.  

It really is quite enjoyable to walk along these pools and breathe in the fresh air.

(But before we head around that distant rock corner we had to stop for a picture.  We get a lot of nature and not enough of ourselves with the nature)

Well as we made our way for that distant corner, the pathway between the rocks and the ocean narrowed quite a bit, as you can see in the picture if you look back to it.  As we neared the corner, it seemed to call to both of us beckoning in a sweet voice, "Hey what's on the other side?"  

But the waves were coming up a little higher in this spot I commented to Sarah the sort of thing I say when we are out and about by ourselves, something like, "Honey you sure you want to do this part, it's looking a little crazy.  Those waves could get us at any moment."  

I always say things like this in the most manly voice as possible, knowing ahead of time there is not much Sarah backs down from and I do not want to seem the wimpy husband boy man.  

To be fair in these moments I tend to be over cautious and Sarah over adventurous.  Pushing past them has often led to greater experiences, though not always without Sarah giving me the sidelong look to imply, "You're silly husband."  

And everything was fine until one, what I am referring to as a rogue wave, wave decided to not break at our feet but a good foot above our heads!  It happened suddenly and without warning.

What a jerk wave!  It could have shouted, "Watch out you newbs!"  It was so fast and out of no where that neither of us had any clue it was coming until the wave was inches from our faces.  I turned to the extra sharp rock wall on my right and had only enough time to get to hand holds.  

BOOM!!

CRASH!!

SWIRLY CONFUSION!!

A POWERFUL PULLING FORCE!!

SOAKED!!

As the water tried to rip me out to sea I barely hold on and finally had time to think, "Oh crap, where's Sarah?"  

When my feet hit the ground again I turned to see her on the ground, at the edge of having been washed out with a wild look in her eyes, but clinging to the moss in the little pool we had been walking in moments before.  

Thank God!  Just before grabbing her and getting the mess out of there I looked at my hands because they were stinging quite uncontrollably.  Great. 

We then got back to safety before another wave decided to teach me another hard earned lesson.

(I should  have made Sarah do a close up as this just does not do it justice.  And it doesn't
show the chest and leg wound where the wave apparently picked me up, turned me side
ways and slammed me into the rocks before trying to take me out to sea.  No wonder
the hands took a beating as they twisted and turned on the rocks)

What can you do but laugh? 

We had been idiots and it could have cost us dearly.  While Sarah was almost washed out to sea, which could prove to be the way more dangerous of our two situations, she suffered much less from the deep cuts caused by the wave trying to rip me off of a super sharp rock face. 

At this point we passed up our opportunity to swim in the cave and we headed off to get bandaged up. We will go back!  But we will not repeat the same mistake and we will be more mindful of the rising tide.  Good-ness! (said in my best duck dynasty voice)

(Go Arlington!  Who wants to come run with the palm trees?)

I've been trying to get a few runs in while in Guam.  The goal seems to be to run at 4am or after sundown.  I rarely achieve either.  

Mostly I wanted to post these pics because I want the Arlington cross-country team to know I miss hanging out with them and making them run "fun" workouts.  I'll miss being around to watch the meets this Fall!

(One more to get a little bit of Guam in the shot)

Well, my hands are mostly healed now and I'm ready to be back on the rocks!  Just kidding.  

This past Saturday night we had the chance to go hangout with the two youngest Johnsons for the night so the adult Johnsons could attend a function - babysitting!!  And yes while little Wesley was a bit of a crazy man it's still fun to be around those two.  

The next morning we all got up, ate some breakfast, and headed out to see some of the landscape surrounding Andersen Air Force base where the Johnsons are stationed.  

(Heading down to check out a sweet overlook)

It was fun hiking with the kids.  Wesley especially will stop to look at every single thing he sees.

Bugs, rocks (to throw, flip, examine, carry), sticks, "tunnels" that lead off into the bushes (which looked more than terrifying but he kept asking to go down the tunnels).  

I think he might be worse than Sarah when it comes to pursuing dangerous leads and wanting to hike/crawl/run/jump off into the unknown.  

(The timer feature for the group pic)

Ok Wes you were right.  Not a bad overlook after all.  

(Just a little farther back and the shot will be perfect. Take one more big step backwards please!)

I climbed up to see this view just to the right of where our group shot was and thought the same thing you are right now.  

We have to go to there!  

I intend on going back with Wes n company to investigate what looked like a trail to me heading over and into the wild.

(Might need my machete for this hike)

(One more overlook before heading down to the beach to swim but this one is only about a twenty yard walk)

Tarague Point!  You're so good looking Tarague Point!  No Seinfeld fans, Tarague Point had not just sneezed, but I was overcome with having to proclaim its beauty.

(Wes took this shot and I'm glad he did.  That's pretty awesome)


Warning! Awesome beach and swimming pics below!  Keep going to see some more.

(Underwater photographer Sarah Baddorf at work)

(Just stick your hand in there.  It's safe.  I promise)

The beach was fun too!  We did some snorkeling, resting, crab looking, splashing, and more. If you're ever on Andersen Air Force Base check out this beach out!

(I am calling this one: PINK SHARK)

(Look at these goofballs!  Seriously good pic though)

(Till next time Guam)

So many more hikes to do.  

I promise, to the moms out there, we will be more careful.  

But I also promise to the Sarahs out there, we will be more adventurous.  

It is the dichotomy I am learning to live within being married to wonder such as my wife.  I fully expect one of you to write the post for us when our adventure does turn too far sideways.  Surely it will make for a good story right?  In the meantime, we plan on living for many more adventures. 

There are too many sites to be seen and things to do to be too silly this early in the great game. We shall take enough to care to probably live long enough to see more of it!  

Hiking with the Johnsons

(Standing in front of a waterfall and ready to do some more hiking)

(Here we are near the beginning of the trail with no idea of what an amazing hike
we were in store for on this particular day)

When Wes and Katie asked us if we wanted to go hiking with them in Guam we said, "Does the Pope where a funny hat?" Well maybe I said something like that after we said "yes" and "most definitely" about fifteen times.  This past Sunday we finally all had a day where we could head off into Guam's beautiful landscape. When we started the Johnsons handed us some gloves and said something like, "You'll need these because of the sword grass and other stuff."  Other stuff? I thought that was pretty interesting as I have never done a hike where I needed gloves, at least not when it's super warm outside.                   

We both nodded, accepting our most generous gifts, and followed them down a trail that almost immediately slopes down the side of some hills (you can see below in a pic now steep and slippery the trail was from the get go). Wes and I have a nearly perfected technique for this part of the trail where one simply skis down hill on one foot with the other out in front for protection. My Mizuno running shoes worked pretty well for this as it turns out. Down and down we went until we made an abrupt turn and headed up river towards the water falls - yes water falls! This hike is called the Cetti Falls Hike, its name being significant because there are seven different falls one climbs up during the hike. Climbs?  Wait what? Oh, gloves! For the ropes and rocks you use to climb the waterfalls. 

(Click on the link to learn more about this particular hike)

After our first big waterfall climb Wes turned to us and said, "Do you see why we didn't exactly tell you every single thing about this hike a head of time?" He was wearing the same smile you see in the pictures of him in every single picture on this blog - a mischievous grin that implies so much. But perhaps we could see his point. Sort of reminds me of almost any run I go on with my brother Bryan. He is never honest about the distance, time it will take, or the difficulty of the run. They have been best friends for a long time. Perhaps they learned from one another.

(Yep, there is that grin.)

The hike was pretty awesome and we made it up all seven water falls, with advice from our experienced hikers in front of us to not only show the way but the best side for climbing so no one fell or died or whatever. In all seriousness it was great and we loved it, though we were sore in weird places the next few days (wait, still am as it was only this past Sunday).

(There is no way to not get wet on this hike, as you can see from us in the picture.  To much wading and climbing through waterfall water and such)

(I really loved climbing with the aid of these ropes who some sweet person left out here.  Yes it's a little crazy using the ropes but to be fair I let four other people use them first so unless it was just my extra weight or that one particular moment I figured I was good for the climb)

Once we finished the Cetti hike we got back to the cars and dropped some gear before deciding to head across the street and do Mount Lam Lam hike (the link is another report of the hike I thought was kind of helpful to read). The cool part about this hike is it takes you to the highest point in Guam, which is not super high but it's still the highest darn tootin' point in an entire country. And as Wes told us, and the link explains, this happens to be the biggest mountain in the world. Wrap your head around that little nugget - no I did not say it is higher than Mt. Everest as that is absurd. But starting from the bottom, which happens in this case to take us to the bottom of the Mariana trench deep in the ocean, we find one big mountain. Apparently if you count the part of the mountain covered by water, Mount Lam Lam over shadows Everest in total height (that's pretty cool). You can climb to the top of the highest mountain in the world and not have to deal with the pesky altitude of Everest, or snow or many other things (yes yes, I know what you're thinking but still).  

(Wes stopping to point out something significant. Maybe he is pointing to Cocos Island where you can see all that pretty water out there)

As usual I'm going to stop yammering on and on about these two hikes and just let the pictures and the captions do the talking.  Thanks to Katie for most of the pictures, to Wes and Katie for introducing us to this wonderful hike, and to Allison our new "trail troll" friend as Wes kept calling her.  I have a feeling we will be calling upon her as a guide a few more times in the next few months.

(Heading up Lam Lam was a much easier hike compared to Cetti. We are definitely still adjusting to Guam climate)

(The top of Lam Lam with some nice views - I was still soaked mostly from waterfalls even after this thirty minute hike, and yes just a little bit of sweat too. It was nice of a family to have been hiking at the same time to take this shot)

(There are crosses all up the trail as this hike is also used during Easter by local Christians to walk "stations" up to the top for part of a religious experience. Pretty cool.  I'm going to have to go back on my own and do a Christian ascent sometime. With plenty of bug spray on though)

(I just really like this shot of Sarah.  I'm looking out and probably wondering what I did to get here. It's truly amazing in Guam)

(Are you joking with me right now? Guam has some truly breath taking views.  Every hike we have done so far has a view of the ocean, as would make sense if you know how big the island is of course.  Just look at the photo!)

(At the end of our days hiking, with only a downhill to go, we are happy and ready for a nice break)

(Waterfalls!!)

(It definitely looks much more straight up when you're climbing. Here Sarah is showing me how it's done - like a boss)

(Just a shot in between climbs but watch that footing - it's slick!)

(Like statues of mermaids in Norfolk or horses in Germantown or whatever your town does, Guam has statues of Carabao all around the country.  They are this guy! Click the link to read about them. We could definitely smell this one before we saw it. It was not super comfortable with us being this close but I bet it really just wanted a hug.  I thought Sarah might try)

I've already started thinking about our next post which will include why I'm having difficulty typing this post.  My hands are slightly bandaged from having been torn up a little by some rocks when a rogue wave decided to have its way with us on a coastal hike.  Till next time!!  (we are both fine so no worrying)

Guam!!

(While exploring for caves, we wandered down onto the coastline.  Fun but
the ocean kept threatening to try and wash us out for a swim!)

Well we are at it again, it being the traveling and trying to see as much of this world as we possibly can.  I am revitalizing this blog with some posts just to keep family and friend updated with fun photos, hopefully some adventurous stories, and mostly so my mom knows I'm still alive.

So why Guam?  A lot of people asked me that the past few months, especially since I had to leave a wonderful job at Hope to head off into the wilderness.  Perhaps the best answer, and the one that will remain true for us on most questions like this, is the one George Leigh Mallory gave in 1924 to the New York Times.  When asked why he would go off and pursue being the first to climb Mount Everest, risking life and limb, his response was succinct.  "Because it is there."  While Mallory paid the ultimate price in hopes of climbing the world's tallest mountain, we use the same response for answering the 'whys' when asked.

(The hotel we stayed in for the first two weeks while Sarah got started in
work and we searched for our first home had a nice view over Tumon Bay.
This shot shows more of the trees and other hotels but notice the color of the
water!  More pics to follow)

There are always motivations for why we pick a certain location though, I suppose, and this one was no different.  Sarah had a job offer for working here in Guam and so it rested on a list in the back of our minds for a while as a possibility. When we decided we wanted to make a run at getting both of us to the South Pole in Antarctica and it started becoming a reality (we actually both have jobs there for the next winter beginning in February but that's another story and there are still some hiccups), a place like Guam started gaining a little bit more steam mostly because, you guessed it, it's warm.  Sarah has been on two Antarctic journeys now and it made sense to both of us to seek out a place with a little bit of sun before retreating it for months at a time at the Pole.  But Guam also holds some of our best of friends, Wes and Katie Johnson and family.  When we added all the factors together, including Guam's location being near to other places (Japan, Vietnam, China, etc) we would like to visit, it became our top choice for next the next stop.  We will be in Guam until December 10th, with a short pause to head up and do the Northwest Passage, but again we are getting ahead of ourselves.

(That gives the basic location)

Where in the world is Guam!!  In the words of Jane, "Guam is a real place?!" Yes.  We are in Guam as pictured on the map I borrowed from online. It is part of the Mariana Islands which form an archipelago (8th grade geography terms hard at work being refreshed in my brain - click on the link to learn more from wiki). Guam has an interesting history and was first found by explorers when Magellan (yes, that Magellan) landed on Guam when attempting to circumnavigate the world.  We are reading a book about the history of Guam and have not made it far yet, but the natives were subject first to Spain, then to the Japanese, and now the Americans.  Yes it is still an American territory and remains one of the last remaining "colonies" in this world, according to the book.  Click on the link for a brief synopsis of Guam's history, again according to wiki.

Hafa Adai!  Hafa Adai (pronounced "hoffa day") is "hello" for Marianas (the island chain Guam is located in) Native Chamorro language. It's used more or less the same way as "aloha" is used as a greeting on the Hawaiian Islands and the people are super friendly so far.  Ok, enough info for now.  Pictures and a few with stories of what is behind the photo.  

(Just hanging on the beach in my sweet Agape North t-shirt from Memphis.  Not a bad view)

(Two Lovers Point, where as the story goes two lovers threw themselves into oblivion rather than to live apart.  Apparently some Spaniards where going to have her marry one of their own and the lovers would have nothing to do with that.  It is a high cliff and if the story is true it would have been a heck of a fall. It's a pretty place for a lookout but our day was cloudy. We will be going back on a more clear day to enjoy the view)

(Sarah is posing by what are called lattes.  Not the kind you drink silly. These are ancient structures the original Chamorro people would build to support certain important structures.  Now one can see latte statues around as memorials to the native way of the Chamorro lifestyle.  I like to imagine them full of tasty hot joe)

(We made it down the hike and into the caves.  This one has a nice underground swimming pool in it!!  In total darkness unless you bring your head lamp.  Gollum??  He wasn't there but next time we are taking our second head lamp because Sarah likes to turn it off and then just stand there to freak me out.  No thank you. We wadded in water just to about our waste until you get to this little pool, making our way through the cave in water, and then you can swim with your feet not touching the ground. A really special place!)

(With the flash you can see how beautiful the cave pool really was - even though when Sarah turned out the lights you cannot see any of this!  So crystal clear)

(I had to add one more photo from the cave wanderings in the water.  It was pretty fantastic even though it scared me. The photos with the flash really showed the beauty even more than the small head lamp could by itself)

(So we get to hang out with these "savages" as their dad calls them while in Guam.  Evie and Wesley.  Pretty fun crew.  This pic was taken while watching a little bit of Hercules. When I'm not ninja fighting with little man (he loves the ninja turtles and is always saying "fight me"), the princess gives Sarah and me drawings and helps me take down the little man)

(A little bit of a blurry shot but it shows the hike down the side of a cliff we took to go in search of a cave where we could wander and even swim??  Some nice folks had put up some rope for people who would come after them. Sweet)

(A Spanish plaza built to commemorate the one the Spanish built here a long long time ago.  Pretty cool.  There used to be a palace but now just a few porticos and such.  Cannons.  Cool.  Beautiful park)

(We turned the head lamp off and took a pic.  I would have kept working to get one where the water could be seen behind us but it was already about as much as I could do to take one like this.  I kept figuring when I looked it later we would see some creature behind us creeping up to get us! I think I would rather have one or two other people with us for caving.  So who wants to come?  Come on!)